In 2006 a Strategy of Slovenian Gastronomy was made setting 24 gastronomic regions and 180 typical dishes. A slogan “Taste Slovenia” was also chosen and is currently being copied by some other European countries (for example Portugal). The strategy especially highlighted the importance of Slovenian “gostilna” (tavern), for future development of Slovenian culinary recognisability.
Gostilna definitely represents a possibility to set up a network of culinary quality and regional culinary identification, therefore it would be absurd to measure regional quality by fast food stands and mostly average hotel restaurants. We need to take a step further not just organisationally but mostly mentally to establish a firm network of quality gostilna in Slovenia. Gostilna has been a part of our historic development for centuries and is one of the specialities of our cultural area marked by many ingredients: family tradition, meals based on local provisions, development of regional and house dishes, symbiosis of food and wine of all three wine countries, appropriate space for gatherings, developing different social events and so on. For a few years, or actually decades after the Second World War there were numerous discussions on the so called preservation of the Slovenian gostilna. There were numerous board meetings which failed immediately due to a significant number of different views and opinions. Even the stable terminology known since the late Austro – Hungary times was weakened through numerous unprofessional innovations (for example “gostišče”, “gostilnica” etc.), which only diminished the reputation of the noble word “gostilna” and most of all its content. Until the end of World War Two we only knew two: gostilna and gostilna with accommodation or “dvor”. Everything else were pubs, wine shops, distilleries, latter bars, cafes and other marginal drinking places.
It was about time the gostilna, its incredible offer and its commonly known house service got its reputation back. As a matter of fact this isn’t about regaining reputation since most of them never lost it, yet about including this local and regional culinary quality in the framework of Slovenian recognisability. A new brand “Gostilna Slovenia” was established and is starting its mission of specific culinary differentiation, similarly to numerous European and world regional environments (Italian pizzeria, Thai restaurant, French restaurant, restaurant chain in Friuli–Venezia Giulia named “Trail of tastes” etc.). Entry into the network of Gostilna Slovenia is regulated by a special rule book. The main entry condition is of course the name gostilna, followed by a series of conditions, which need to be met by the establishment. Culinary offer is of course of great importance since over 80 % must be based on house (or wrongly called domestic), local, regional and Slovenian dishes and their modern interpretations. The provisions attribute great importance to local food suppliers and their tracking. Also important are sustainable and nature-friendly development, wine offer where Slovenian wines from all three regions are in the forefront, way of service, staff uniforms, outside and inside design and even music. All the establishments reaching an appropriate number of points will be awarded the sign of Gostilna Slovenia on a noticeable board and typical signboards. The gostilna signboard is a modern interpretation of the old gostilna signboard, first made by chipping and from the 19th century from zinced metal, marking the houses where guests were welcomed and served great food and drink and sometimes offered accommodation.
Membership of this forming association, chain or network will also be open to hotels, of course only those who offer not only fitness, wellness, massage parlours, restaurants and bars, but also places with special offer of local and regional culinary art. This kind of offer represents another world within a hotel complex can be called Gostilna Slovenia. These will surely represent a novelty in the existing culinary and tourist offer of hotels. Therefore it is no surprise that the Chamber of Craft and Small Business of Slovenia and its section of catering and tourism are cooperating in the establishment of the new brand. The forming chain of taverns called “Gostilna Slovenia” represents one of the few tourist products of Slovenia aimed at promoting Slovenian culinary art. Our country is still relatively culinary unrecognizable despite some positive efforts in the last few years. Therefore, only systematic and professionally supported efforts of the new brand “Gostilna Slovenia” will contribute to the establishment of a new-old culinary content currently already at a high level. In the often poor and unattractive offer of tourist content at Slovenian hotels including their frequent culinary automatism (there are of course exceptions, yet they can be counted on the fingers of one hand) the brand “Gostilna Slovenia” offers a fresh and at the same time committed offer. The experiences from abroad affirm this idea since many hotels boast incredible, top-notch restaurants. They are often run by eminent or rising chefs, whose names alone represent quality and offer a symphony of tastes. Weren’t the tastes a basic measure of dividing good and bad taverns centuries ago? They were in Slovenia!
dr. Janez Bogataj
