HIDDEN GUEST: Gospoja Vinotel

Vrbnik is among the oldest villages on Krk island, as evidenced by the abundant archaeological finds. A destination of venerable age, Vrbnik is also incredibly picturesque, perched on rugged rocks overlooking the Velebit Mountains. The location of Gospoja is one of its greatest advantages, tucked atop a rocky cliff above Zgribnica Beach. Here, you are guaranteed incredible views. The picturesque hamlet was recently declared a cultural monument. Any guide about Krk you will page through will include a fun fact about one of the narrowest streets in the world, named Klančič. The city was a Glagolitic centre for centuries. Here, over 100 manuscripts were written. Guides and catalogues will likely inform you of the wine produced on the island’s karst fields and the legendary wine sort “vrbniška žlahtina”. Almost every family makes their own. Vrbnik is also home to several established wineries, including the Gospoja-Toljanić winery. For decades, Vrbnik has built its image on the renowned wine sort. In 1995, Ivan Toljanić opened the Gospoja restaurant, and the rich tradition of the restaurant was crowned in 2016 when the family opened the first wine hotel in Croatia. The memory and spirit of Ivan have been preserved in the hotel’s logo bearing his initials – IT.

The easiest way to reach Croatia’s second-largest island is by car. Since 1980, this Adriatic island has been linked to the mainland with a scenic bridge that boasted the longest concrete arch in the world when inaugurated. The fastest way to reach Krk is by driving on the Zagreb – Rijeka motorway or from Slovenia and Italy. Rijeka Airport is a welcome alternative, with improving connections to the rest of the world. The flights, although abundant in summer, are scarce in winter and could be counted on the fingers of one hand. Still, Krk Island is well-positioned, and you can reach it from any regional air crossroads. Travelling by train is possible, too, as Rijeka’s train station is only thirty kilometres away. From there, trains depart daily to Italy, Austria, Germany and Hungary. Buses from Rijeka offer regular and reliable connections, heading to Trieste, Munchen, Frankfurt, Stuttgart, Budapest, Zurich, Koln and other European capital cities. In the off-season, you won’t have parking issues, but you may be in a predicament in the summertime. Therefore, be patient when navigating the narrow streets and check for parking in advance.

Idis Turato is considered one of Croatia’s most distinguished architects. The hotel bears his recognisable signature. His original design is downright provocative in an era dominated by minimalist and generic hotels. Wine is the common denominator of the design. The rooms bear the names of Croatian wines: the cavernous lobby daubed in blue honours red wines, the first floor blanketed by shades of green pays homage to white wines, while the second floor extols the local wine sort. The wine hotel was erected by merging five old Vrbnik houses, symbolising five Croatian wine regions. Gospoja Vinotel’s architecture has stood the test of time, and the fusion of traditional and modern blends with the overall design. We could say it appears to have always been there. Modern design dominates the interior, too. In the restaurant, a bevvy of wine ornaments, barrels, vines and ethnographical pieces dominate the space, yet appear somewhat unnatural. Regardless, the architecture exudes local character and stands head and shoulders above the developments on this island.

In terms of professionalism, the staff ranges from astonishingly hospitable to barely professional. The hotel should focus on improving the service. The cuisine is ambitious, based on fresh, local ingredients native to the island. Gospoja’s young chef decorates them creatively and abundantly. Still, today’s gastronomy dictates a principle of less is more. That is why we occasionally felt the dishes were too laden and not as refined as we expected. The spirit of the restaurant’s pioneering chef, Dino Knežević, now cooking in Zagreb, remains, but the details make the difference. The hotel thus has room for improvement, considering the overarching theme is wine. Pairing wine and dishes should be a priority. Breakfast was a tad disappointing, and apart from a broad selection of local desserts, averagely dull. That is a shame, as breakfast could make a tremendous difference. Simply slicing the homemade prosciutto in front of guests would make a difference. This simple stunt would boost sales of excellent local products that the family painstakingly produces. Alas, during our visit, this remained a missed opportunity.

Hotel rooms

The bond-esque feature of staying in room 007 is the spacious terrace from where guests can admire the stunning sea views. Otherwise, the rooms bear names of wine sorts. The 007’s monicker comes from Tribidrag or Crljenak, a wine sort that once dominated Dalmatian wine cellars and was the predecessor of the Zinfandel wine sort. The room boasts an unmissable ceiling adorned with dark blue wine grapes that exude a unique character. It goes tremendously well with the tiles that protrude from behind the bed and reach the ceiling. A spacious panoramic wall gives the room a feeling of endless spaciousness. The quality bed is elegant, even outstanding, thanks to the soft bed lining. The furniture by the Croatian brand Prostoria is fantastic, especially the luxury lounger and work chair. The classic, if generic, bathroom is incredibly functional. We did miss an authentic, local line of cosmetics, perhaps something connected to the hotel’s wine story.

Meetings centre

Gospoja Vinotel does not feature a purposeful conference centre. Still, event organisers can host their event in the hotel restaurant, ideal for up to 80 attendees, or in a restaurant ideal for up to 120 participants. The family offers an additional event venue – the prosciutto tasting room.

DESSERT – The extras

The boutique wellness is impressive thanks to its concept, colours and design. Space is limited, though, which is why we recommend booking in advance. Wellness & Spa Gospoja includes an indoor pool with a relaxation area, a modern and technologically advanced spa area with showers, a Finnish sauna, a steam room and a Mediterranean sauna.

FLOP – NEGATIVE SURPRISES

If wine is the hotel narrative, it should be in the limelight throughout the hotel. The hotel is steps away from becoming a full-blooded wine hotel. Alas, we had a bit of a bitter aftertaste that could be improved by guided wine tours, blind tastings, wine promotion and all the rest that goes with a wine hotel.

TOP – POSITIVE SURPRISES

The views from the rooms with balconies are stunning and therapeutic. The background of the imposing Velebit mountain chain and the blue depths of the Adriatic will leave you speechless.

SUSTAINABLE ENDEAVOURS

The hotel has not implemented sustainable measures beyond a generic call to action asking guests to save the planet by reusing their towels. Krk Island can do much more in terms of sustainability.

The price of staying in Gospoja Vinotel is high even in the off-season. Consequently, guests’ expectations are high, and the hotel must meet them. In terms of design, the hotel was stunning and ahead of its time. The rooms are spacious and feature inspiring views. Yet, nomen est omen – the wine story is supposed to be the star. Today, it seems the management has undeservedly neglected this aspect. To achieve excellence, the hotel must go the extra mile to improve gastronomy and staff and nurture the unique hotel story. Guests hope for more than a classic overnight stay when visiting a wine hotel. That is not to say the hotel is mediocre. Conversely, Gospoja Vinotel is a charming boutique hotel that will satisfy event attendees.

FINAL GRADE: 4.79 TWO MEETING STARS⭐⭐⭐Boutique Meeting Hotel 

3 MEETING STARS⭐⭐⭐ final score from 4.81 to 5.00
2 MEETING STARS⭐⭐ final score from 4.61 to 4.80
1 MEETING STAR⭐ final score from 4.41 to 4.60