HIDDEN GUEST: Esplanade Zagreb Hotel

The railroad once was and might again become the impetus of rapid development. Hotel Esplanade was erected in 1925 to cater to passengers travelling from Paris to Istanbul on the legendary Orient Express, offering luxury and comfort. Until 1977, passengers of the Orient Express could savour the splendour of the iconic hotel before the line was shut down. Since its opening, the hotel has become an institution that has shaped the hospitality and event scene of the Croatian capital for the past century. In 1964, Hotel Esplanade became the first hotel in a socialist country to join the InterContinental chain, which remained in Zagreb until 1975. In 1988, the distinguished hotel became a part of the Leading Hotels of the World group. Following its last renovation, it became a member of The Regent Hotels & Resorts for a few years – the only such hotel in the region. The list of key historical milestones seems endless. In terms of location, Esplanade is the hotel that defined the centre, spirit, and modern history of Zagreb. Not even the events industry in the Croatian capital can be imagined without it. Today, this venerable hotel is more than a hotel – it is an institution that symbolises hospitality. Esplanade is difficult to overlook, and its reputation precedes it – both for foreigners and locals. Meet me at the Esplanade…

Hotel Esplanade came to life to meet the demands of affluent passengers of the legendary Orient Express that often stopped in Zagreb on its route between Paris and Istanbul.

The advent of the railroad in 1862 was a key milestone in Zagreb’s history. That year, the Croatian capital became connected with European metropolises. A few decades later, in 1892, Zagreb inaugurated the central train station, which still serves as a key traffic crossroads for the city. Hotel Esplanade came to life to meet the demands of affluent passengers of the legendary Orient Express that often stopped in Zagreb on its route between Paris and Istanbul. In 1928, even Agatha Christie boarded the iconic line, inspiring her to write one of her most-read novels. The hotel is tucked away in the very heart of the centre, adjacent to the main train station, only a few minutes away from the old town, overlooking the verdant Zrinjevac Park. Esplanade Zagreb offers excellent accessibility, regardless of whether guests arrive for business or leisure. Guests arriving in Zagreb by car can enjoy a spacious underground garage, the Importanne. For historic hotels, this is a rarity that demonstrates how thoughtfully the hotel approaches accessibility. The parking costs between 28 and 45 EUR per day.

The Franjo Tuđman Airport (ZAG) is some twenty minutes away by car or taxi, ensuring guests have reliable access to international flights. As the airport is poised to be further enlarged, and flight connections continue to grow, Zagreb’s accessibility is fast improving. Hotel Esplanade is the city’s most opulent reception saloon. Guests can also navigate the city with Bolt, Uber, or local taxi providers. We also recommend cycling through the streets, as the infrastructure is fast-improving.

The elegant and instantly recognisable building of Hotel Esplanade is considered one of the most stunning architectural icons of Zagreb. The architect, Dionis Sunko, designed it during a transitional period between the Secession and Art Déco epochs, enriching it with neoclassical symmetry and polished decorative details. The result is an impressive, grandiose building that has been turning heads for over a century. Ever since its advent, the hotel has been the epicentre of social life and the embodiment of luxury in the region. In 1964, the hotel became a trailblazer by joining the InterContinental hotel group. After a thorough renovation in 2004, the hotel’s lost lustre was restored under the Regent brand. This move ensured the highest standards of quality. But even the brightest glitz fades away after some time. Today, two decades later, some areas of the hotel look as though they want to whisper to the owners that they demand a revamp.

The hotel lobby is a space where it seems as if time stopped: marble surfaces, crystal chandeliers, and golden details tell stories about the hotel’s stars who once rubbed shoulders here.

These details are a reminder of the type of guests the hotel aims to attract. The hotel remains one of the prestigious in Zagreb and regularly ranks among the city’s best. But once you enter, you are not only taken aback by the feeling of prestige, but by the feeling that you have entered a realm where tradition is holy, style is timeless, and time passes a bit slower. Two decades after the last renovation, however, it seems the time has come to imbue the hotel with a refreshed style. We hope the facelift will not be too radical.

Even on our fourth visit, the hotel’s service and staff remain synonymous with quality. Yet, there are sporadic lapses – the difference between the afternoon and morning concierges was striking. The older colleague embodies everything we understand as hospitality, while his younger colleague lacks vigour and passion. We experienced the same fluctuating service in the restaurant, where the young personnel are professional, but lack the charisma and passion that would befit a five-star hotel institution. Luckily, the reception team made a lasting first impression, albeit they were occupied by a throng of Korean tourists.

Even today, Esplanade stands out from its competitors thanks to the creative menu and the professionalism of the staff.

The gastronomical offering is the hotel’s trump card. Under the leadership of Ana Grgić Tomić, who became the first woman helming Esplanada’s cuisine in 2012, the gastronomy can undoubtedly be dubbed haute cuisine. However, the dishes also carry her modern, refined, and daringly creative signature. Since welcoming its first guests, the hotel has been renowned for using quality local and seasonal ingredients and meticulously preparing dishes with attention to detail. Even today, Esplanade stands out from its competitors thanks to the creative menu and the professionalism of the staff. The dishes masterfully couple Zagreb’s flavours with the taste of the Mediterranean and continental Europe. Every combination of flavours reflects the balance between tradition and modernity. You can savour this fusion at breakfast, which we consider among the best in Croatia.

The Zinfandel’s Restaurant, named after the autochthonous Croatian wine sort (kaštelanski crljenak), prides itself on having received the Michelin Green Star and represents a true culinary experiment lab. Among the hotel’s culinary gems, we also recommend Le Bistro, where guests can enjoy the iconic Esplanade “štrukli”, a handmade pastry that oozes oven-baked fresh cottage cheese. This dish is part of the hotel’s DNA. Splendid!

Hotel rooms

The Superior Room is a sort of time machine that will transport you a century back. Although renovated, the room is superbly maintained. Still, the management should consider changing the otherwise stunningly elegant wallpaper, as we deem it to be at the end of its lifecycle. The rest of the room was designed in a classic hotel design that will impress even guests who prefer contemporary hotel design. Details abound in this rich, highly decorated room – from the elegant headboard clad in fine materials, graphics with Secession details, and charming retro photos of Zagreb. The eye-catching details include the night lamps and ceiling lights crafted in a Secession style.

the room retains the spirit of old-school hotel luxury.

Guests can inspect how well the once omnipresent marble has stood the test of time in the bathroom, where the combination of green and beige marble tiles exudes luxury and timeless design. You will also find plenty of mirrors where you need them. The well-stocked minibar is today more of an exception than a rule. Hence, even with this element, the room retains the spirit of old-school hotel luxury. The Superior Room deserves praise, albeit it could do well with a smaller refreshment – perhaps a new carpet or a different set of wallpaper. Yet, perhaps we are in the wrong; perhaps guests staying here refuse to embrace change. They might be impressed by the high ceilings or the splendid and comfortable bed. At the end of the day, nostalgia has charm. How long the hotel can continue to play this card is another question altogether.

Meetings centre

The iconic Emerald Ballroom can accommodate up to 350 attendees. It is doubtless one of the most unique and exclusive conference halls in the region. With its monumental cupola, rich decoration, and state-of-the-art technical equipment, it creates a space that remains in the minds of guests. In addition, the hotel offers seven other halls and some smaller meeting rooms (Istanbul, Paris, Venice, etc.). In Croatia, this is considered the most exclusive venue for conferences, gala dinners, and corporate events. To boot, the hotel’s gastronomy is world-class. Zinfandel’s Restaurant and other gastronomic concepts within the hotel ensure attendees can also savour moreish bites during events.

DESSERT – The extras

Although breakfast is a classic part of a five-star offering, they have elevated it to new heights at the Esplanade. The classic self-service buffet has been enriched with an à la carte menu. Each dish reflects the culinary know-how of the team and their immaculate attention to detail. The chef’s signature can be observed on every plate, especially the desserts that wowed us with their creativity and refinement. This is undoubtedly one of the finest breakfast experiences in the entire region.

FLOP – NEGATIVE SURPRISES

The years are beginning to show. An incredibly long period has passed since the hotel was last refreshed. The bathroom reflects this negligence, as the decor shows signs of wear and tear. Moreover, the size of the shower is peculiarly small for a five-star institution. One hairsplitting remark also concerns the costly price of staying here – shouldn’t a bottle of water come free of charge, at least?

TOP – POSITIVE SURPRISES

The greatest positive surprise is the atelier dotted with artworks and photos that have been thoughtfully selected. It is rewarding to pause for a moment and delve into the history of this hospitality icon of Zagreb. This artistic venture is an elegant way for the hotel to commemorate its 100th anniversary.

SUSTAINABLE ENDEAVOURS

The tiny plastic shampoo bottles should be consigned to the dustbin of history, regardless of whether they are of a renowned brand. Today, luxury is not about selecting opulent brands, but rendering rooms energy-efficient, demonstrating the traceability of ingredients in the cuisine, managing waste, establishing local partnerships, and wisely using natural materials. These elements then convince guests that the hotel’s sustainable aspirations are genuine. On the other hand, we must praise the hotel’s decision to eliminate hotel information maps and to communicate through QR codes instead. Nonetheless, sustainability seems to be sidelined by the hotel’s management. There is much room for improvement in this area.

Esplanade Zagreb has been reinvented and transformed countless times throughout its century-long history. Our most recent visit marked the fourth hidden guest evaluation of the icon of Zagreb’s hospitality scene. Not once has it disappointed us; instead, it often impressed us with its details and charm. Nevertheless, we must write that the hotel’s ageing has not been all that graceful. Make no mistake, the hotel still oozes charm and charisma. Yet, it desperately needs a fast and effective facelift. Although fancy hotel magazines are commendable, as are the myriad hotel gadgets, they cannot mask the drawbacks of the hotel. A rule of thumb is that a hotel should be revamped every ten years. Luckily, the event halls are outstanding. The waiting list of clients shows why the Emerald Ballroom is likely the most prestigious hall in the city. The catering and the excellent chef also contribute to the extraordinary score our hidden guest assigned to the event offerings.

Hosting an event at this hotel is an honour for many event organisers.

This may sound old-fashioned or conservative, yet hosting an event at this hotel is a prestigious honour for many event organisers. The staff is well aware of this, which is reflected in the high prices for hosting an event here. As we perused the hotel’s magazine commemorating their centenary, we realised they swear by the motto: “the best or nothing”. Alas, we did not experience that during our stay due to the fluctuating service. A hundred years of tradition is a grandiose jubilee – but they will need to go the extra mile to celebrate the next one.

FINAL GRADE: 4.91 THREE MEETING STARS⭐⭐⭐ City Meeting Hotel 

3 MEETING STARS⭐⭐⭐ final score from 4.81 to 5.00
2 MEETING STARS⭐⭐ final score from 4.61 to 4.80
1 MEETING STAR⭐ final score from 4.41 to 4.60