ORGANIC HUNGARIAN DESIGN
LOCATION
Some nine million years ago, echoes of erupting volcanos reverberated across Europe’s tumultuous Pannonian Plain, filled with the vast Pannonian Sea. Somlo Hill stands on the eruption site of three underground volcanos, which gave birth to Hungary’s most exclusive wine region millions of years later. The reason is the volcanic soil: so fertile anything can grow here. Basalt volcanic remains are found aplenty around the iconic hill, rising 435 metres above the plains. Seeing is believing, so the best way to see you are amidst a wine paradise is to climb the top of the hill, dominated by the historical Somlói Var Castle from the 14th century. Some cellars in this 485-hectare region are among Hungary’s best. One of them is the ambitious Kreinbacher Birtok wine cellar. The exceptional building is a tourist attraction and a mecca for regional gourmets and wine lovers. As Michelin concluded, the Kreinbacher Restaurant is one of the country’s leading. The entire story of the winery that doubles as a boutique hotel and superb restaurant is unbelievably convincing. We strongly suggest veering off the main tourist roads around Balaton Lake. Kreinbacher Birtok is managed by Accent Hotels, a company at the helm of other authentic hotels in this part of Hungary.
ACCESSIBILITY
The arrival at the hotel is a breathtaking experience on its own. Glancing at the basalt rocks strewn around the volcanic hill, the sloping vineyards that set the scene and the Kreinbacher Birtok complex seeping into nature ensures a memorable first impression. The easiest way to describe the location is to say it is a stone’s throw away from the main road leading from Veszprem to Kormend and onwards to Austria. All main roads lead to Balaton, whereas the winding, mysterious and scenic local roads lead to this hidden paradise at the foot of the Somlo Vulcano. The easiest way to reach the resort is by car. Alternatively, you can opt for the train that regularly connects Kormend and forward to Graz. The closest train station is in Devecser. Still, arriving by car is the most pragmatic choice, as the parking in front of the hotel is secure and spacious. Amidst this wine haven, you must walk among the vines to appreciate the terroir. We also recommend pedalling through the wine roads with a bicycle. The resort is only an hour from Budapest and a short drive from Hévíz–Balaton Airport.
COLD STARTER - Architecture and aesthetics
The hotel bears the signature of architect István Bársony. His organic architecture seamlessly blends a minimalist, modern design with nature and the local wine heritage. Construction of the Kreinbacher Hotel commenced in 2022. It will be completed and evolved in numerous phases. They are adding a spa and wellness centre to the resort this year. The wine cellar was created from reinforced concrete, entrenched into the soil and covered with a lush green lawn. Dark-grey monolithic buildings turn heads with their design, appearing to levitate within space. All the facilities point to a zen atrium that incorporates classic modern architectural features, including an architectural promenade, transparent design and free-flowing layout. The interior design is the brainchild of the Hungarian architectural bureau Biva Inspiration. Dominated by vast glass surfaces, the interior harmoniously seeps into the outdoors. Everything gives the impression of equilibrium. In addition, surprises await at every corner. For instance, you will stumble upon an art installation of a dissected sun at the edge of a tidy and impressive park. The next moment, you will enjoy the beauty of the retro or recycled furniture pieces. This double-sided nature of the architecture gives the resort a unique and distinct character and charisma.
WARM ENTRÉE - The staff and the culinary experience
The staff exudes proudness to co-create such a phenomenal story. Although we consider our evaluation strict and hairsplitting, we could not find a single remark regarding staff members. They also convinced the lauded French Michelin Guide by upholding the highest standards. This year, the restaurant did not receive Michelin stars but was voted one of the top 70 Hungarian restaurants. That heralds outstanding professionalism, friendliness and quality. The menu pairs typical Hungarian flavours with Mediterranean and Asian cuisines. Tasting the resort’s signature sparkling wines is a must. Chef Gábor Langer composed a menu that will knock your socks off. We were left speechless by his mouthwatering appetisers that included eggplant with coriander and superb sourdough bread. The entrees are equally delicious, particularly the modern take on lamb meat. Lovers of classic dishes will likely opt for the fried veal steak in a fresh reenactment or the duck breast. Well-known dishes, if sometimes dull, come to life in a completely new light here. For the icing on the cake, you can savour the signature “floating island” or the rhubarb with goat cheese. The exquisite gastronomical experience continues at breakfast, which justifies the resort’s quality.
MAIN COURSE – The meetings offering at the hotel
Hotel rooms
Two separate facilities house fifteen hotel rooms. Whereas the exterior copies the refined image that graces the estate, the interior deviates into more eclectic waters. The combination of industrial and rustic appears pleasant, nonetheless. In the rooms, glass industrial walls nicely combine with the retro tiles and a distinct seventies style. What caught our eye was the warm oakwood flooring in contrast with the coarse, exposed concrete ceiling. The crudeness of the concrete is softened by a graphic image depicting the hotel’s emblem, a snowdrop. Next to it, an antique wooden frame now serves as a mirror, adjoining a modern closet. Atop the headboard hangs a decoration made from the iron hoops of a wine barrel. Retro antique work lamps complement the entire design. The story does not end there; the designers transformed a rudimental farming tool into a club table by adding a glass board. Next to it, guests will find modern design furniture pieces and an industrial light embedded into the concrete ceiling. We must commend the superb bed that ensures a good night’s rest.
Contemporary, modern, rustical, retro and industrial elements intertwine with refined splendour in the rooms. We were most impressed by the open terrace with a chic lounge set. It opens up to a tidy garden where you can enjoy the fresh air or relish the stunning views.
Meetings centre
You can host your event in two of the hotel’s halls. A most sensible choice is the conference hall spanning 120 square metres, capacitating up to 70 attendees in a theatre setting. Alternatively, the central building provides a welcome space for standing receptions with up to 100 attendees. We also fancied hosting an event amidst the verdant hotel park or the vineyards. We must highlight the diverse incentive programmes connected to the wine story. They range from classic and blindfolded wine tastings to encyclopedic whole-day wine experiences.
DESSERT – The extras
The tasting rooms are tucked away in the iconic basalt-hued building. Make sure to visit it and taste samples of their best wines whilst staying here. Every incentive experience can start and finish with a wine tasting here.
FLOP – NEGATIVE SURPRISES
The rooms are well-maintained, proving the design was thoroughly thought out. Regardless, signs of wear and tear are starting to show. The rooms will soon be ready for a refreshful revamp.
TOP – POSITIVE SURPRISES
The price tags of wines in the well-stocked hotel fridge are unbelievably affordable and a far cry from the overpriced wine bottles in Budapest’s swanky wine stores.
SUSTAINABLE ENDEAVOURS
The resort does not champion sustainable activities apart from the wine story, which is sustainable per se. Try the domestic local wine sort Jufark to understand the winemaking legacy of the region.
FINAL IMPRESSION AND CREDIBILITY
Kreinbacher Hotel has all the attributes of a boutique hotel, crowned with an exceptional wine story. The wine legacy is its trump card, elevating the entire offering. Comparing it with sparkling wines is apt – the best are superb originals, not copycats of standard-setting French ones from Champagne. Similarly, this hotel dazzles guests with an unforgettable experience in one of the region’s most original venues. József Kreinbacher began making his dreams a reality in 2002. The abundant accolades and satisfied guests, including numerous event organisers, are a testament that he succeeded.
Far from generic, Kreinbacher Birtok is a distinct, highly original and, in many aspects, outstanding incentive hotel. It may not be everyone’s cup of tea but it caters to guests seeking authentic and exceptional experiences in this part of Hungary. One of the hotel’s advantages is the superb value for money.
FINAL GRADE: 4.95 THREE MEETING STARS⭐⭐⭐ Boutique Meeting Hotel
3 MEETING STARS⭐⭐⭐ final score from 4.81 to 5.00
2 MEETING STARS⭐⭐ final score from 4.61 to 4.80
1 MEETING STAR⭐ final score from 4.41 to 4.60
