HIDDEN GUEST: Tivoli Portopiccolo Resort

A few years back, the Sistiana Bay pointing towards Trieste was a forlorn, vacant quarry. The idea to transform this area into a luxury tourist resort had been in the minds of entrepreneurial brothers de Eccher for over two decades. As the owners of one of the largest Italian construction companies headquartered in Udine, they dreamed big, pouring over 350 million euros into the project. In August 2014, their dream – a resort comprising a marina, the luxury Hotel Falisia, a spa centre, and a unique conference centre – came to fruition. Sistiana Bay is ideally located between Trieste and Monfalcone, near the Trieste Airport. After welcoming its first guests, it quickly became a regular stop for the regional jet-set, largely thanks to Hotel Falisia, the crown jewel. Today, the resort seems brilliantly managed and tidy. Yet, its turbulent history reveals a different side: in 2020, it changed hands, followed by the pandemic and another change in the ownership of the hotel, restaurants and resort in 2023. When the Tivoli Hotels & Resorts took over, everything seemed to have fallen into place. The springtime buzz on the main square resembles the heartbeat of towns dotting the Adriatic. This rhythm never stops but only thumps more slowly during winter months. A decade after its opening, the Sistiana Bay is acquiring a refined patina and gaining value thanks to its phenomenal location at the northernmost part of the Adriatic.

If you come to the hotel from Trieste by car, we recommend zigzagging on the coastal road to Sistiana Bay. The journey will pass by in the blink of an eye on the scenic 12-kilometre coastal stretch of road. Still, keep your eyes peeled for signs as you approach the hotel, as there are two entrances – one leading to the resort and the other to the hotel. Upon arrival, you will be awaited by a well-labelled parking garage that will set you back 20 EUR per day. The entrance from the garage to the hotel is easily among the most imposing in the Adriatic. Although we missed a concierge who would carry our luggage, we were most pleasantly impressed by the grandiose entrance. From Trieste Airport, it is similarly easy to reach the hotel. The airport, only twenty kilometres away, offers plenty of transportation. If you are an avid train traveller, fear not, as the Italian railroad infrastructure is superb. Only a fifteen-minute ride is needed to reach the hotel by taxi from Trieste train station. The hotel serves as an excellent starting point for walking tours. If you have time, venture onto the nearby Rikli route and revel in nature. The dramatic backdrop of the karst area in the hinterland is equally imposing. If you do not believe us, ask at the reception desk.

Portopiccolo is the brainchild of architect Francesco Lupparelli from nearby Sistiana. The views of the bay and the resort are astounding from every angle. Stretching over 3.5 hectares, the architect wanted the resort to resemble a compact coastal town that blended with the existing cliff shore. The complex comprises 460 accommodation units – villas, apartments, and houses bedecked with spacious terraces. The facade does not bulge out from the surroundings that make up the resort. Within, the architects sourced their inspiration from the region’s shipyard heritage. It resembles the interior of a cruise ship. Fittingly, many ships embarked on their maiden voyage into the Adriatic from the nearby Monfalcone. As a holistic entity, the hotel appears elegant, refined and imbued with a sense of timeless exclusivity. The architecture is the work of architects from the Rome-based studio Lazzarini Pickering Architects. They based their design on the work of the legendary Italian architect, Gio Ponti. The hotel pays homage to the architect with brass and bronze details and intimate circular portholes that befit luxury yachts. We were most impressed by the materials that are ageing elegantly. They hint at the fact that the investors prioritised quality over quantity in terms of architecture and materials.

When was the last time you came across a maître d’hôtel who sees his job as an art form of creating memorable moments? Fabrizio deserves a PhD in hospitality, as does the rest of the team. Catarina is a receptionist who doubles as a well-versed local guide and a professional from head to toe. She remained tolerant and kind even when a demanding guest vexed her over the phone. How wonderful it is to be a guest in a hotel where you are not just a number but a cherished guest for whom each staff member goes the extra mile. The extraordinary experience continued at breakfast. The menu of Ocyan Restaurant is minimalist but well-thought-out. We had not tasted such succulent artichokes in ages. The marriage of local wine with food is phenomenal, topped off by consistently warm, natural and authentic service. The dishes we tasted were ambitious, sometimes resembling dishes from Masterchef. A bit of creativity in the dessert department would send this gastronomical experience into the stratosphere. The breakfast was slightly less impressive. The food was not disappointing, but we did miss the a la carte menu, a feature that would befit a hotel of this calibre. Likewise, we missed personal recommendations from the staff on the house specials. In the land of excellent pasta, meat delicacies and cheese, slow cooking in front of the guests would provide a wow effect and add to the pleasant ambience.

Hotel rooms

When an investor spares no expense on the materials, design and technology, you feel as though a hotel opened yesterday, not ten years ago. The takeover of the former Falisia Hotel by Tivoli Hotels & Resort has resulted in a distinct style of the hotel rooms. Upon setting foot in the room, we were impressed by the massive textile and furniture pieces that make a difference and exude luxury. Even the superb illumination appears flawless. We have no complaints about the colour combinations that often look out of fashion after a decade. The flooring, boasting mouse grey, beige and brown hues, still matches seamlessly with the royal red of the walls. The tapestries on the walls and fitted onto the ceiling construction, which functions like a bed canopy, caught our eye. The heated tiles are a welcome feature, delighting guests on windy winter nights or on hot summer days. The spacious and well-equipped bathroom is a feel-good room. The bathtub and walk-in shower render it outstanding. Design elements, such as the sliding doors (doubling as a mirror), or the innovative designer details like the in-house cosmetics line, make all the difference. The bed linen was above standard. Although this room is basic in size, it provides excellent value for money. On top of that, the spacious balcony overlooking the marina is splendid.

Meetings centre

Tivoli Hotels & Resorts also took over the management of the former Congress Centre Portopiccolo. It continues to thrill guests with a scenic terrace for coffee breaks, boasting views of the azure sea. The main Panorama Hall can accommodate up to 220 attendees. Due to its exclusivity, it is sought after among wedding organisers. Two spacious and well-equipped halls represent the heart of the offering. Baia Hall can accommodate up to 215 attendees. It can be split into two separate halls. Within the resort, there are other unique corners for events, too. A boutique conference centre is tucked away within the Tivoli Hotel. It can accommodate up to 35 attendees. As apt for the quality of the conference centre, all halls are fitted with state-of-the-art technology. Moreover, the underground parking garage enables event attendees to park effortlessly (1220 parking spaces).

DESSERT – The extras

The artificially created coastal part of the town was dubbed Puro Beach Club. During the day, this serene haven is an exclusive beach with loungers, parasols and pergolas on terraces fronting the turquoise sea. As night falls, this beach club transforms into an ideal venue for receptions and parties with phenomenal views. Another picturesque venue is the Marina & Yacht Club. Countless organisers of events, weddings, car launches and yacht events quickly made this venue their favourite. Besides the two clubs, unique venues for corporate events are strewn around the town. Event organisers have been renting them for incentive events, workshops, car and yacht launches and other product launches. According to the resort, there are over 6490 square metres of such event spaces.

FLOP – NEGATIVE SURPRISES

Access from the road could be better labelled. That means you may end up at the wrong entrance. Apart from this, the hotel seems flawless.

TOP – POSITIVE SURPRISES

Driving north of Sistiana Bay, phenomenal views of Duino and its medieval castle open up, enticing guests to experience the charming atmosphere at various evening events. Looking south, the magical Miramare Castle is only a proverbial hop away, with its pleasantly cool parks that shade visitors from the scorching sun on summer days. When visiting Portopiccolo, we do not doubt you will dash to metropolitan Trieste, a twenty-minute ride away. Behind the coastal city, the karst hinterland presents itself as an up-and-coming destination with countless opportunities.

SUSTAINABLE ENDEAVOURS

The resort has given the area a completely new value. Portopiccolo also received the Green City certificate, meaning the town is 100% sustainable-oriented. In Portopiccolo, they generate electric energy with the help of a solar plant while using geothermal energy for heating. We hope the hotel acquires a certificate to reinforce its sustainable aspirations.

The new management, Minor Hotels, understands the essence of hospitality. Their involvement is a guarantee of quality. Their portfolio comprises over 550 hotels spread around the globe. Are you familiar with names such as Anantara, Avani or NH Hotels? Finally, we must compare the former Hotel Falisia with the new Hotel Tivoli. A breath of fresh air and a new hospitable approach have helped the hotel evolve. The architecture is ageing elegantly, acquiring a refined patina. Not least, the diversified offerings give the hotel substance. The question remains: which is better – the former Hotel Falisia or the new Hotel Tivoli? Although we prefer to avoid answering such questions, the numbers speak for themselves. Hotel Tivoli is captivating and designed for those who want premium quality. In this light, Tivoli Portopiccolo Resort is eyeing other flagship incentive hotels that dot the Adriatic and aiming to claim the top spot.

FINAL GRADE: 4.94 THREE MEETING STARS⭐⭐⭐ Resort Meeting Hotel 

3 MEETING STARS⭐⭐⭐ final score from 4.81 to 5.00
2 MEETING STARS⭐⭐ final score from 4.61 to 4.80
1 MEETING STAR⭐ final score from 4.41 to 4.60